The New York Times has just informed us of our Santorini's treasures !!! Santorini of Greece !!! The absolute perfection ....

Of all the fascinating regions that have emerged in the global wine economy over the last 20 years, I’ve become especially enamored of Santorini, the Greek island in the Cyclades, which produces some of the most distinctive white wines around.

These wines are made almost entirely of the assyrtiko grape, one that over many centuries has superbly adapted to its unusual island home of volcanic rock. Because of the strong winds off the Aegean Sea and the powerful summer sun, the assyrtiko vines are trained in a peculiar way, like the woven strands of a circular basket, hugging the ground for protection.

Assyrtiko has been grown and made into wine for centuries. But awareness of its existence outside Greece is a recent phenomenon. Only in the last 15 years or so have these wines appeared outside the provincial clutches of Greek restaurants and neighborhoods. Now, when you see them in stores or on wine lists, they can represent wonderful values among the class of savory marine whites.

The three bottles I recommend are:

Argyros Santorini Assyrtiko 2014 (Athenee Importers, Hempstead, N.Y.) $24

Hatzidakis Santorini 2014 (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York) $22

Gai’a Santorini Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2014 (Athenee Importers) $25

If you cannot find these bottles, look especially for ones from Sigalas, which I could have easily included among the three, and Boutari. Those are pretty much the extent of widely available producers working on Santorini, so you may have to take shortcuts. Sigalas, for example, also makes an assyrtiko blended with athiri, another white grape from Santorini. That would be fine, too.

These wines naturally go with any of the sort of Greek seafood preparations that may seize your imagination when thinking of the Aegean Islands in the summer: tiny fried fish; larger baked or sautéed fish with lemon accents; shellfish; squid; maybe even some more restrained octopus dishes. Also, the panoply of Greek spreads and salads will go beautifully with these wines.

As always, serve the wine chilled, but not too cold. Twenty minutes or so out of the fridge should be just right.